MTU 4 Wheelers

[Darren]

I have an issue with my truck and was wondering if anybody could come up with some solutions, or maybe a diagnosis, or clear up if anything is even wrong. The truck is an '88 Chevy 1500 with the 5.7L v8 manual 4speed + OD.
When ever i first start the truck the oil pressure goes to past 60 on the gauge and stays there like its revving itself to death. This is with the clutch in. Upon releaseing the clutch and taking off the truck basically propels itslef. If i put the clutch in and come to a stop before the truck warms up it does the same thing and revs very high. After the truck is warm however, it runs normally... UNTIL.. after running for awhile (usually around 17 miles or so) and coming to a stop when i put the clutch in the oil pressure drops to the low 20, 15's and the truck sounds like its going to die, spitting and sputtering. Sometimes it stalls on its own at idle. Its kind of a pain, but i can live with it for now. I just really dont like when the engine revs so high at the start, because I dont feel like blowing the darn thing up. The truck doesnt have a tachometer, just an oil pressure gauge so thats why everything listed is oil pressure. The truck only has 117900 miles on it, and everything else works good enough( except a really squeaky clutch which is annoying sometimes). Just wondering if anybody can give me any tips or hints or a solutions. The only modification to the truck is that it has stainless radiator hoses. Radiator was flushed 2000 miles ago. I bought the truck during the summer, and really only noticed the stalling issue. But now that its getting cold outside, the starting high rev is evident. I was thinking it might be an engine sludge issue? not letting the old beast warm up enough? Thanks for any help
Darren

[Deerepower74]

Is the check engine light on? If so, are you able to retrieve the diagnostic codes? It's possible you have a sensor giving you fits. Coolant temp sensors, O2 sensors, IAC's, TPS' and MAP sensors are common.
If the light is not on, I would check over your vacuum hoses and lines and look for cracked and disconnected ones.
Try running seafoam through it and see if anything improves as well. When was the last time a tune up was done? Fuel and air filters?
TBI's are pretty simple but they can also be a headache.
_________________
'39 John Deere "B" s/n B63209
'51 South Bend Model "A"- wanted 4-jaw chuck
'56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO
'58 Chevy 36 Apache
'69 Aluma Craft 14' w/ '73 Evinrude Sportwin
'72 GMC K2500
'74 Chevy K/20 Cheyenne Super
Enter next project here
'94 GMC Jimmy
GM Diesel Power

[hog]

My 89 GMC did the same thing when the coolant temp sensor went last winter, extremely high idle when cold to idleing like a 1,000 HP big block and occaisonally stalling when warmed up.
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92 S-10 ext cab 4wd
89 GMC 4X4 new plow beast
46 Farmall H

[Darren]

its probably a combination of a few things. Ill change out the fuel filter/s, because those probably need changing anyway. The check engine light isnt on. Where is the coolant temperature sensor located??

[Deerepower74]

The coolant temp sensor is in the intake near the thermostat housing. It should have a small two wire plug IIRC.
If the check engine light is not on, the sensor may not be the culprit. IAC's are relatively cheap, you may want to invest in one of those as that regulates the idle.
_________________
'39 John Deere "B" s/n B63209
'51 South Bend Model "A"- wanted 4-jaw chuck
'56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO
'58 Chevy 36 Apache
'69 Aluma Craft 14' w/ '73 Evinrude Sportwin
'72 GMC K2500
'74 Chevy K/20 Cheyenne Super
Enter next project here
'94 GMC Jimmy
GM Diesel Power

[Darren]

Ill definatly look into it. One last question though. Since the truck is a manual shift it has a shift light in the dash that says "shift up" with an arrow. But the shift light never turns off. Even in overdrive it says to shift up. anytime your just cruising around with the truck the shift light stays on. It turns off when you push the gas all the way down, but under normal driving, it stays on. Which sensor controls that, or do you have any other ideas whats wrong?

[larboc]

Get ahold of me, I've got a homemade OBD 1 cable for my laptop that will work with that ecu. I can look at your sensors and pretty well see exactly whats going on. I'm in hancock.

6 2 o- 779-2o3nyne
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pledge juice in plethora

Jeremiah, on banana's, "If these were warm and soft, I could shove them right down my throat."

The 5-460x, Spicer's little punch line.

total cylinder count, 141. Take that eric.

[Darren]

First of, Thanks a lot for the help with my truck. The idle is much better now. The shift light is still on, but whatever, i dont mind. I have a new problem though, and need some guidance. The starter is going quickly on the truck.
The Problem: For the past week the first start would be a loud grinding noise and then a loud winding. Then i try again and it starts up. Today, it took 3 trys to get it started. I want to put a new starter in at my house next week, but need some quick help since I cant find my answer on the internet. How many teeth are on the flywheel?? Did the stock flywheel have 153 tooth or a 168? I know this makes a difference when buying a starter, so how do i tell which one i have on my truck, or what did the stock 5.7L V8 manual trans come with in '88???

[larboc]

umm, I thought a chev starter was pretty much a chev starter, flywheel tooth count doesn't matter.
Regardless, rockauto.com says you need delco 96113
I'd probably just pull the effer, go carquest with it and match it up to make sure, they'll have em in stock.

You could also just replace the starter drive bendix, but the starter isn't that much more than a bendix. make SURE you let em know you are in the wheelers at autovalue or carquest to get the discount. iirc it's significant on starters.


Thinking about solid axle swaps anymore? some ideas to build off of.
http://www.bigredchevy.com/swap.htm
http://www.offroaddirect.com/gallery.htm

edit, you should have 168 teeth. look up the flywheel ring gear on rockauto.
_________________
pledge juice in plethora

Jeremiah, on banana's, "If these were warm and soft, I could shove them right down my throat."

The 5-460x, Spicer's little punch line.

total cylinder count, 141. Take that eric.

[Darren]

alright, well ill just pull it and then go up to carquest and get one that matches up. Should only run be $100ish? Thanks again for the help.
As for the axle swap, right now im gathering ideas. I really like the idea and I'm thinking probably this summer. Only thing is, as of right now i want to keep the truck street legal, or.. U.P legal. I wouldnt be driving it more farther than to baraga, onto, houghton, keweenaw counties, but I dont want to run into to much trouble. As for the swap, I like the idea of running 35's or so. What would I do for front leaf springs? whats a good doner vehicle? As for axels, a dana 44 front, stock rear? I see its a lot of metal fab. work, but it can be done. What kinda sensors will i be running into in the front end/what will i need to change? how to rig up steering? Will my stock steering box be able to handle the larger tires, or will I have to upgrade that as well? How about driveshafts? How do you get longer driveshafts/ who makes them? Will i be lowering the t-case? Will the truck be permanently 4x4? As for the rear end, do you replace the leafs or do you just drop the leafs with shakles? Some of these are decisions i have to make, some are questions. So I've been reading and gathering ideas and will continue to do so this winter, as well as start gathering parts closer to spring. Any wisdom or helpful pointers are greatly apreciated.